Why Aesop Waited 35 Years to Create Its First Retinoid Serum

After more than three decades of research and formulation, the Australian skin care brand has introduced Resolute Facial Concentrate, its first-ever product featuring a retinoid. Rather than chasing higher percentages or stronger formulas, Aesop took a measured approach, developing a treatment that prioritises efficacy alongside skin comfort and a more considered, sensorial approach.

Designed for skin that is naturally evolving over time, Resolute Facial Concentrate combines Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), an advanced retinoid chosen for its stability and reduced potential for irritation, with barrier-supporting squalane, replenishing vitamins and botanical extracts including Sea Fennel and Cedar Atlas. The result is an oil-serum that helps support skin renewal, strengthen the skin barrier and refine texture, all while delivering the woody, calming aromatic experience synonymous with Aesop.

Ahead of the launch, we spoke with Sacha Salameh, scientific & valorisation lead at Aesop, about why the brand waited until now to enter the retinoid category, the philosophy behind Resolute Facial Concentrate and why performance has never come at the expense of pleasure.

Resolute Facial Concentrate marks Aesop’s first formulation with a retinoid. What made now the right moment for the brand to enter this category?

Sacha Salameh: Retinoids have always been recognised for their ability to improve skin texture, but we also understood the limitations that traditionally came with them, particularly redness and irritation that could compromise the skin’s natural balance. At Aesop, we’ve always believed in respecting the skin rather than overwhelming it. We spent years searching for an ingredient that aligned with this philosophy before selecting Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, or HPR. It delivers the performance we were looking for while offering excellent stability, compatibility with the skin and a significantly lower risk of irritation.

Retinoids are often associated with sensitivity. How did you ensure this still felt distinctly Aesop?

SS: From the very beginning, we wanted the experience to feel reassuring rather than intimidating. HPR was chosen because it doesn’t require the same conversion process as traditional retinoids, making it more stable and generally better tolerated by the skin. Beyond the active ingredient itself, we incorporated a generous concentration of squalane to nourish and reinforce the skin barrier, alongside Cedar Atlas, which contributes a warm, woody aroma with calming qualities. Every element was considered to ensure the formulation delivers both efficacy and comfort.

Aesop has always spoken about sensorial pleasure as an essential part of skin care. How does that philosophy translate into a results-driven product?

SS: For us, performance and sensoriality have never been separate ideas. We believe a formulation should be enjoyable to use because consistency is what ultimately supports healthy skin. Resolute Facial Concentrate was created to become part of a daily ritual. From its rich oil-serum texture to its grounding aroma, every aspect encourages regular use while delivering the skin-supporting benefits of a retinoid.

You spent years searching for the right retinoid. What were the non-negotiables?

SS: HPR was only one part of the story. We wanted a formulation that worked as a complete system rather than relying on a single hero ingredient. Alongside HPR, we carefully selected ingredients that help replenish what the skin naturally loses over time. The goal wasn’t simply renewal, but nourishment, resilience and maintaining the skin’s equilibrium. It had to perform exceptionally while remaining unmistakably Aesop in both philosophy and experience.

For someone incorporating Resolute Facial Concentrate into their routine, how would you recommend using it?

SS: We always begin with the fundamentals of cleansing, toning and hydrating. After cleansing and applying a toner, three to five drops of Resolute Facial Concentrate can be gently massaged into the skin. Those new to retinoids should introduce it gradually, perhaps every third evening before increasing frequency according to how their skin responds. It can also be used during the day, provided it is followed with broad-spectrum SPF.

How does this launch reflect Aesop’s broader philosophy towards healthy skin?

SS: We don’t believe skin care should be about reversing time. Skin naturally changes throughout life, and our role is to support those changes with formulations that nourish and strengthen the skin. Resolute Facial Concentrate was developed to help maintain skin in its optimum condition as it evolves, supporting renewal, improving resilience and helping the skin feel balanced over time.

Consumer demand for retinoids has never been higher. How much does that influence your formulation decisions?

SS: We never begin with trends. We begin with purpose. Consumer insights certainly help us understand what people need, but every formulation is ultimately guided by our own research, scientific expertise and standards. Products should exist because they fulfil a genuine need, not simply because a category has become popular.

After 35 years of research, how do you know when a formula is finally ready?

SS: We don’t work towards deadlines. We work towards balance. A formulation is only complete when every ingredient performs in harmony and reflects our three guiding principles: efficacy, skin compatibility and sensorial pleasure. Only then do we consider it ready to become part of the Aesop collection.